Taiwan’s Fantastic Fusion Cuisine

One of the great things about Taiwan is the food. Not only is it fresh, varied, and delicious, it’s also quite inexpensive. For these reasons, eating out is practically a national pastime. There are literally restaurants, cafes, and food stalls everywhere, in every neighborhood across the island. The quality of the food is outstanding. Like Chinese food on the Mainland, and in places like Hong Kong and Singapore, the people insist on freshly prepared food.

Taiwan’s version of Chinese food is unique and unlike anywhere else, including right across the Taiwan Straits in Fujian Province. However, Taiwan’s native cuisine is probably most related to that of Fujian Province. This makes sense since most Taiwanese have roots in Southern Fujian Province, and they speak Southern Min dialect (閩南話 mínnán huà) also known as 台語 táiyǔ, or Taiwanese. Other regional Chinese cuisines, such as Sichuan, Cantonese, and Hunnan, can also be found in Taiwan, but where the food really shines is in their uniquely fusion food.

Taiwan has had hundreds of years of exposure to outside influences beginning with the Dutch the early 1600’s. Their cuisines has also been heavily influenced by Japanese, Korean, and North American and European food. A great example of this is Taiwan’s famous Oyster Omelet (蚵仔煎 ézǎijiān). The dish is probably originally from Fujian or Guangdong Province. Several years ago I was in the coastal city of Chaozhou (on the Mainland, Southeast coast) and ordered an oyster omelet at a local restaurant. It consisted of a plain egg omelet with fresh oysters mixed in, (below).

The Taiwanese have transformed this dish into something very different, and which caters to local tastes and outside influences. Taiwanese oyster omelets are made with a sticky and gelatinous batter made with tapioca starch. This gives it a chewy and QQ texture that Taiwanese love. The oysters are first fried on a large grill then the batter is poured over them. This is followed by eggs.

This is then topped with some fresh greens. Once it is cooked through it is drizzled with a sweet ketchup-based sauce that may include sweet chili sauce, soy sauce, maybe some peanut butter, and then is topped with cilantro. Of course there are countless different recipes for this dish and each restaurant or night market food stall with have their own version. The dish pictured here comes from a night market in Taipei.

The result is a soft, chewy omelet with tender little nuggets of oyster embedded into the egg and pancake base with that sweet, tangy sauce. The tapioca starch is probably influenced by Japanese food.

Other Japanese influenced dishes include Taiwanese oden (關東煮 guāndōngzhǔ), commonly found in convenience stores, along with onigiri (Japanese style stuffed rice, usually in a triangle shape), instant ramen, and Japanese curry. Keep in mind that these are all Taiwanese versions of these Japanese dishes, and are probably pretty different from what you would get in Japan.

Taiwanese oden (steamed fish cakes)
Japanese style curry from a Family Mart; they’ll heat it up for you in a microwave oven.

Another popular snack often found at night markets is Taiwanese tempura, 甜不辣 tiánbùlà, which is really nothing like the deep fried tempura we know of in the West or in Japan. In fact, the direct translation of this Taiwanese dish is “sweet not spicy.” In Taiwan it is seasoned fish cakes served with a sweet and sometimes spicy sauce (your choice).

Taiwanese tempura

When I was in Taiwan recently I lived in a neighborhood in Taichung that was full of Taiwanese style Japanese restaurants. They included restaurants that specialized in donburi (Japanese rice bowls), ramen, and Japanese curry. Some were quite good, and others were just okay.

Taiwanese donburi
Taiwanese ramen
Taiwanese Japanese curry
A curry with cream sauce on the side (not sure where that came from)
This was the strangest curry I had, which was covered in melted cheese, I guess this was a fusion of Japanese and Western influences. ,

The Taiwanese also make delicious fried chicken. This is usually served as a large flattened and deep-fried chicken breast, or fried chicken is also prepared as what we call popcorn chicken.

Another popular snack in Taiwan is called 抓餅 zhuābǐng. It is a fluffy, flaky pancake made from dough and chopped up on the grill to make if more flaky. It is then filled with various fillings like egg, meat, vegetables, and so on. At one stall, I ordered one with cheese, and was surprised when they pulled out a Kraft single and put it on. They are also often served with basil. In all my years traveling to Mainland China (30+) I don’t think I’ve ever had a dish with basil in it.

This is just a sampling of the many dishes in Taiwan that are influenced by other cuisines around the world. Does all this mean that Taiwanese food is not authentic Chinese food? Certainly not. It is authentic to Taiwan. The other big influence on Taiwanese food that I haven’t discussed is the native aboriginal cuisine that has existed on the island for thousands of years. Aboriginal food, and aboriginal influenced Taiwanese food has gained popularity in Taiwan in recent years.

You should go to Taiwan!

My colleague and friend, Professor Henrietta Yang at tthe University of Mississippi, and I have been working on this book for the past 4+ years. It was finally published a couple weeks ago by Rowman & Littlefield Publishers. It is available at Amazon, Barnes and Noble, and wherever else you get your books.

I directed a study program at Nanjing University in the Mainland for 20+ years. With the political situation deteriorating and the Covid pandemic, we, along with many other American universities pulled our students out of Mainland China and discontinued our program there. We hope to go back in the future. We have since established programs in Taiwan. In recent years there has been renewed interest in studying and workling in Taiwan and many Chinese language programs have relocated to the island.

Campus of Naitonal Taiwan University in Taipei

Before Mainland China opened up to foreigners in the early ’80’s nearly all the Chinese language programs were in Taiwan and the vast majority of Chinese scholars before that time have spent time in Taiwan, either initially studying Chinese or doing research. Taiwan has world-class Chinese language programs and has a vibrant, modern, sophisticated , and open society. The first chapter of the book presents several good reasons why you should consider traveling, studying, or working in Taiwan.

We also cover who lives in Taiwan and how they self identify, how to get around, the food scene, living in Taiwan including how to find housing, studying, with tips and strategies to make your time worthwhile, working and interning in Taiwan, and final chapter on Taiwan’s diverse geography with some suggestions on what you should see while you are there. This isn’t a typical travel guidebook listing names of hotels and so on. It is intended for the individual who plans to spend time there and go deeper. It is sprinkled with Chinese (both pinyin and characters) for those who know Chinese or are learning. That way, you learn how to identify food items, place names, and so on.

Taiwan has deep roots with traditional Chinese values. It is a free and open society. The country has countless temples, almost in every neighborhood, and they are used as places of worship and not tourist sites.

The food scene in Taiwan is spectacular. With so much outside influence in Taiwanese cuisine (Japanese, Korean, Mainland China, the West), much of the food is a really interesting fusion.

Finally, Taiwan is a beautiful and diverse place, from the bustling cities to surfing in the far south. There is a great deal of outdoor activities to enjoy.

Hualien

So, go to Taiwan. You won’t regret it. And the book will help you navigate the intricacies of life in Taiwan.